Goa.
The sun, sands and the sea? Nah. Not by a long shot.
Those were the images on our mind as well till we glimpsed a different Goa. A rustic and virgin Goa. A Goa that promised to be more alluring than its famous alter-ego. We booked our vacation through India Untravelled and got a chance to stay at one of the most amazing locations ever.
Our homestay “Cancio’s House” was located deep in the hinterlands of North Goa – in the tiny village of Aldona located on the banks of the Mapusa river. “Cancio’s House” also known locally as the Amaral’s house is a 500+ year old Goan-Portugese property owned by the beautiful family of Roberto Amaral, his graceful mom Maria, his wife Raquel, their three lovely kids – Harrison, Antonio and Rafael, their two beautiful dogs – Donut and Jess and the cat which has adopted them – Floss Boy.
The house, which is believed to have been built in the pre-Portugese period, has undergone several restorations over generations but still retains its old world charm with lovely rooms overlooking a central courtyard. We listened avidly as Roberto recounted his rich family history in the charming dining room where black and white photos of his ancestors line the walls, lace curtains adorn the windows and the lilting strains of music floats in the background.The house is surrounded by dense foliage consisting of native trees, shrubs and creepers inhabited by a plethora of creatures.
Roberto and Raquel welcome their guests warmly not only into their homes but also their hearts. I was overwhelmed by their amazing hospitality in spite of them being in the midst of a personal tragedy. My 9 year old was elated to have found such endearing friends and dogs to play with and had to be literally dragged out for any outings! As Roberto regaled us with his inexhaustible supply of anecdotes, Raquel served us wholesome home cooked meals. Her home-made chocolate brownies and jams are something to die for. We tasted several locally made breads like the Katro (Butterfly bread), Poi (Wheat flour based bread) and even had the good fortune to taste the Bol (A traditional goan bread made for distribution during marriages). Roberto took us to visit a local bakery where we had the opportunity to see the breads being freshly made. Piping hot Pois’ straight from the wood fired earthen oven tasted heavenly!
Aldona is a biker’s delight as the narrow but incredibly well maintained roads crisscross the entire village. We rode past lush fields, small water bodies, local churches, old Portugese styled homes and through some interesting stretches that led nowhere. It’s a place where one can keep driving forever. We did stop at times to listen to the call of the Red Wattled Lapwing or to gaze at the beauty which a serendipitous turn on the road would reveal. We stopped by an old stone bridge with wooden sluice gates (Teen Mansher) to see an angler gathering his spoils for the day. Around 4 Km from Aldona are the ruins of the old Corjuem Fort built around 1705.A military fortress used for the defense of Portugese India, the ramparts of the fort were an excellent place to watch the sun set over Aldona.
Amidst the small hamlet, the white washed walls of St.Thomas Church rises imposingly. A 400-year old church, its ornately decorated biblical murals were captivating as I attended the mass with Roberto and Raquel on All Soul’s Day.
The adjoining villages of Aldona boast of some breathtaking lakes and waterfalls. Mayem lake, around 10 kms from Aldona and located among sleepy villages, is a sparkling and serene water body enveloped by lush vegetation. As our boat glided in the crystal clear waters, we seemed suspended in a tranquil space as the greens above merged with their shimmering green reflections.
The Arvalem Waterfalls around 20 kms from Aldona, is located near the village of Sanquelim. Located in a small cove nestled amidst dense vegetation, the waterfall is pristine as the white foam cascades down the sheer rock cliff.
Adjacent to the waterfall, the monolithic structure of the ancient rock cut cave of Arvalem, which dates back to the 5th-6th century, stands striking with its laterite stones. As one absorbs the stillness of the chambers inside, one can almost travel back in time.
One cool morning before sun rise, we set off for Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. As we floated in the estuarine mangrove habitat located along the Mandovi river, we spotted several types of Kingfishers, Egrets, Redshanks, Cormorants, Brahmini Kites, Sandpipers and the more rarely seen Lesser Adjutant Storks.
And at long last, we did go to a beach ! Morjim beach – one of the lesser known and hence, lesser populated beaches in Goa, it also serves as the nesting site for the Olive ridley sea turtles.
My post cannot be deemed complete if I were to omit mentioning one of the most endearing aspects of staying in Aldona. And that is the people of Aldona. Extremely amiable and helpful, simple and unassuming, they unreservedly share their laughter and tears. Our cab driver, Deepak, a happy-go-lucky man was an archetypical Goan as he chattered loquaciously and prevailed on us to have home-cooked snacks with his family. Happy and contented with all that life had to offer and his uncomplicated way of looking at life, he could have given a run to many of the so-called-successful but stressed out folks. Maya Angelou’s words came back to me – “We need much less than we think we need.”
Au Revoir Aldona ! We leave a part of us with you and take breathtakingly beautiful memories back home.
Beautiful writing, Spectacular Photographs and a whole lot envious of your travels 🙂 I really need to visit THIS Goa. Hope you had a nice trip, Ash.
Thanks Sid ! You should definitely visit this Goa. It will totally rejuvenate your soul 🙂
Amazing grace, beauty and tranquility, recounted with vivid images and lucidity. It is such a different picture of Goa, unsullied and untainted by gluttonous tourists, depicting life at its purest. The post is a visual treat.
Thanks Uma ! Glad you found it as refreshing as I felt and that I could convey at least a fraction of the emotions as I experienced it myself.
Lovely Ash! SO – there is more than one unconventional view of Goa 🙂 I had the privilege of seeing a different face of Goa when I trekked there from Dudhsagar falls to Castle Rock..and now this!
Suresh, Dudhsagar falls trek would have been ultimate ! We saw it on our way but couldn’t stop there. I am sure now, you would have similar stories to share from your recent treks.. waiting to read 🙂
Lovely clicks. No sand and beaches yet so picturesque. Your host family looks so warm and amiable. Glad you had a good time.
They were Alka. We stayed only for a couple of days, but I am sure we have made bonds for a lifetime 🙂
Well written giving details of all the places to see ! hope to check out the place next time im in Goa !
Thanks Vaga Bond ! I am sure you will love doing this itinerary.
You made my village of Aldona and Corjuem – My Dad’s village sound so exotic. My Mum is from Chorao where you went bird watching. You should have also gone to the St Michael Chapel on the Hill in Assonora my husband’s ancestral village close to Mayem lake and you would have got the most delightful sight of the whole of Bardez or North Goa from there….The Amaral family went there for a picnic recently…Thank you for your warm comments about us Aldonkars – We are like that only…..God Bless…..
Thanks a lot for your comment Maureen ! The villages were so beautiful that I am glad if I have made them come alive a little through my post. We did actually go to St.Michael Chapel on the hill, but as we reached there at noon, we couldn’t get really good photos. Also, going there in the evening or early morning would have been marvelous.
Beautiful write-up as always and what a different side of Goa ! Amazing pics Asha
Thanks Archana ! Glad you liked them 🙂
Ah! This is divine and tranquil and yes, another side of Goa that is normally hidden. Glad you had a great trip, Ash. Did you fly from here or take a train?
Thanks Rachna ! No.We went by train and returned by flight..
Excellent reading experience of a beautiful journey. We really enjoyed your write-up Asha !!!. Deepak the driver, whom one cannot forget after reading your narration,silently gives us a message for us to introspect and feel happy about ourselves. These are the positive gains of a successful trvel. At times we are llucky to have such trips.We wish you to have more number of such trips in future.
Thanks Uncle ! Glad you liked the post. Being with people who are happy with what they have truly makes us introspect
I am completely bowled over by nature’s magnificence & it’s untouched beauty! Beautifully written blog post…My greetings to the Amaral family! We too had been to Goa in 2006 & it was splendid!
Thanks Naveen ! Glad you liked it 🙂
Seems like an amazing experience. Something different from the usual. Nice pics and well described.
Thanks TF ! It truly was an amazing experience 🙂
Goa continues to be my favourite destination but its time we started looking beyond Baga and its surrounds. Homestays is a lovely way to discover the real character of the state and I shall annoy you for details, next time when we plan a trip.
Thanks for your comment Purba. We have always preferred homestays and have been amply rewarded everytime. The atmosphere and the local flavor one can absorb through places like these are completely different than staying at a hotel or resort. You’re welcome to ping me for details 🙂
Thank you for showing us a totally different Goa ! Beautiful pics ! I loved the one with the Hornbill !
Thanks Ruchira 🙂 So glad you liked reading it !
Never been to Goa and this post makes me regret about not going there.
Racquel’s spread is testing my limits. Hungry!
Some great shots!
Well then.. this is something that you should definitely put on your to-do list 🙂
You have seen a beautiful part of Goa. I am yet to explore these. great pics.
Hope you are able to do that soon Indrani 🙂
Wow! A must visit indeed! Thank you for the lovely write up beautifully illustrated!
Thanks Deepak. Glad you liked it !
That’s an incredible experience! Makes me want to explore Goa sometime really soon… one place that still remains unchecked on my list. 😦
Thanks for your comment Arti ! I hope you get that chance soon ! 🙂
Reblogged this on Travels with Mary and commented:
Wow…. stunning!
Wow! What a great write-up. Beautiful story and pictures. Thanks!
Thanks for your comment and reblog as well 🙂 Glad you liked it !
You are welcome Moonstone! Yes, I liked it very much!
awesome clicks!! 😀
Thanks 🙂
Love canciocio.. if possible please do give a bit more information about Morjim beach
Thanks for your comment ! It was around 20 kms from Aldona and we took around 45 minutes to reach. It had mostly foreign tourists but it was still quite empty. There were couple of shacks around serving food.
I wish I could live in a house with so much history. Those brick oven breads are to die for. I and big fan of brick oven things. Awesome experience, thanks for sharing. Will use it as a reference for my vacation, whenever that happens.
Thanks Saru ! It was really nice to experience the house and staying with a Goan family. I have always loved the home stay experience 🙂
Looks great!
haven’t explored this part of Goa!
Thanks Anita !
Wow Goa!!!!!! I have fond memories of this place. Baga Cavolsem… lovely place it is.. Your post brought back loads of memories
Thanks Ramya ! Its truly a treasure 🙂
this was brilliant post! loved it. do you have any contact of Raquel and Roberto? How do I book up this place for a week or so? Please send me a contact no or any email add. thanks!
Thanks Prabhat. You can contact them through their website – http://cancioshouse.webs.com/ or through India Untravelled
The corjuem fort was built in 1551 and not in 1705, the Portuguese restructed it after they occupied it from the Bhonsles
Awesome scenery and the photography is great — The Spider Web is just too real… very good shot.
Thanks
paul
Thanks for visiting my blog Paul and leaving your comment 🙂